I got to make this short (have a meeting to go to), but surfed with Jacob, Cynthia and Luke at a spot in HMB (can not exactly say where) but it was waist to shoulder high clean peelers. No one else was there! We all caught some fun ones and the paddle out was calm. It was chilly out there, but reminded me a lot of New England surf at our favorite local spot. 

There is really no better way to start a day than surfing with friends.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Nikki, Cynthia, Luke, Beth, Jacob, and I went to the Jetty for Nikki's last surf session for over 2 months. As mentioned before, she is heading to Ohio for work.

The waves were chest to head high, clean and peeling. We all got so many waves, but the wave of the day was Beth's long ride. She was so stoked when she came back out to the line up. Her stoke was definitely contagious and everyone was so happy for her.

I have to mention that what inspired me to write about our surf sessions is Cynthia's awesome surf blog: Wave Journal of a Nor Cal Surfer Girl. She takes great photos and videos (unlike me). Take a look at her blog!

After our surf session, Jacob and I headed down to Santa Cruz to meet up with Ward Coffey about new custom surfboards. Everybody in Nor Cal raves about him and now I know why. He is extremely knowledgeable about building boards and a great guy. I have never gotten a custom surfboard made and haven't gotten a new board for 6 years. The waves are much different than New England surf so it is a perfect time to get a new one.

After we talked for awhile, I decided on a 7'10 hybrid with purple (my favorite color) rails and bottom and my own graphic. Jacob is still pondering about what he wants, but will definitely be going to Ward for his new board too.

Today was a beautiful day with friends, surfing and talking about new boards.

Ride waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Last night our friend Nikki had a party at Smuggler's Cove in SF because she is going to Ohio for two and half months for work. We are sad that she won't be here, told her how cold it can get in Ohio in the winter and excited for her to get come back.

A lot of friends were there (and all of them surf) so we started discussing where we should surf in the morning. Luke mentioned JT and Darren mentioned Santa Cruz. I looked at the clock and it was already 10:00pm so I opted in for JT and we convinced Darren to come too.

Jacob and I were out the door by 6:55am and on the road to the JT. On the way there, we checked other places just in case if the JT didn't look good but everything was huge besides Linda Mar where the swell was small and not that good. We arrived at the JT and Luke and Darren were there looking at the waves. We all decided it looked good and hopped in.

The waves were chest to shoulder high. There were larger waves that were rolling through, but closing out. We surfed for about an hour and caught some really fun rights and lefts (mostly lefts). I caught one really good right, two decent lefts and one on my head. Jacob said to charge the one that landed on my head and I thought it looked good too but I guess we were wrong.

(Picture taken by Luke)

I think we are going to go to Santa Cruz this weekend so I can talk with Ward Coffey about a surf board. Excited!

Jacob and I woke up early to check the pier. The surf was double over head close outs. If we had more time we would have gone to the jetty, but we were pressed for time. With a 45 minute session we caught a couple waves. Jacob caught a nice clean head high wave and I dropped in on a wave that had a 2 second face and turned into white water. Even though our session wasn't as successful as we hoped, it's always great to be out in the water.

Jacob and I have decided that surfing at the pier in the winter might not be too successful since this is the time that the waves are the biggest. We will keep checking, but are thinking that the pier could be better in late spring, summer and early fall for waves that are more manageable.

I am hoping to get out tomorrow and/or this weekend. I want to head down to Santa Cruz so I can talk to Ward Coffey about shaping a new board for me. I am hoping to also put my own design on it!

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird

Jacob and I checked the pier at 6:45 this morning, but the waves were huge close outs. I also checked Linda Mar and it looked really good, but I had some important phone calls to attend to. 

I decided to go running at the pier later in the day and right when I got back my friend, Luke, called me and said, "Let's go surfing in HMB!" I was hesitant at first since I was sweaty and had just gotten back from running. He said he was on his way and would give me a report. When he called back, he said that the waves looked good but it was a little crowded. 

I decided to go and I am glad that I did! The sun was going down but I was able to get a short session in (about 45 mins). I caught some fun waves and one really memorable one. It was an over head wave that shot me down the face of the wave. The rush of dropping and and flying down the wave is what always lures me back to the ocean for another surf session. I will probably replay this wave over in my head until my next surf session. 

Runner's get a runners high, I get a surfer's high (or stoke if you will). Surfing completely changes my mood and outlook on life

Spread the Swell,
J-Bird