1.4.11 HMB surf sesh

Jacob and I checked the pier at 6:45 this morning, but the waves were huge close outs. I also checked Linda Mar and it looked really good, but I had some important phone calls to attend to. 

I decided to go running at the pier later in the day and right when I got back my friend, Luke, called me and said, "Let's go surfing in HMB!" I was hesitant at first since I was sweaty and had just gotten back from running. He said he was on his way and would give me a report. When he called back, he said that the waves looked good but it was a little crowded. 

I decided to go and I am glad that I did! The sun was going down but I was able to get a short session in (about 45 mins). I caught some fun waves and one really memorable one. It was an over head wave that shot me down the face of the wave. The rush of dropping and and flying down the wave is what always lures me back to the ocean for another surf session. I will probably replay this wave over in my head until my next surf session. 

Runner's get a runners high, I get a surfer's high (or stoke if you will). Surfing completely changes my mood and outlook on life

Spread the Swell,
J-Bird