9.29 -10.1 Sun, Sunsets, and Stitches

9.29.11 - LM Sunset
I was suppose to meet Cynthia at the JT, but I had a client change a call to earlier in the morning. I ended up going going for a sunset session at LM. I could have searched for better waves, but I decided to head into some whoomping close outs. I started surfing at the northern end and caught two fun head high drops that turned into close outs. I paddled towards the middle and found smaller whoomping waves and less people. At the end of my session, Denise joined me along with a bodysurfer. I didn't catch his name but he told me he has been bodysurfing for 20 years! He use to surf, but he likes the feeling of being in the wave.

9.30.11 - Late Afternoon LM
I started off the day delivering hoodies to Log Shop. I drove by LM and there were nice clean waist high longboard waves. Then I drove up to 2 mile surf shop in Bolinas to deliver their hoodies. I was hopeful that I would be able to fit in a Bolinas session, but the tide was too high. 

I headed back to LM and the waves were still clean knee to waist high waves. Even though it was small, I couldn't pass up a sunny, 72 degrees beautiful day in the water. Max and Emily said they were at LM, but I couldn't find them. I headed into the north end and a ton of  fun waves came through. I caught a bunch of long lefts that allowed me to get to the nose and cross stepping on the 9'0 maroon platoon. I don't mind when LM is smaller because the waves don't close out as badly and a nice shoulder forms.

10.1.11 - JT Stiches
Earlier in the week, my friend, Chris, emailed me and said he wanted to learn how to surf. My other friend, Chris "The Red" joined us too. I started him on the beach and determined that he was a goofy foot. I showed him how to do a pop up, taught him about the surf board and surf etiquette. I told him that he needs to be aware of where the board is and if he happens to fall that he should protect his head. I told him that he needs to be aware of rip currents and the strength of the ocean.

He was doing a great job catching white water. He got to his knees a couple times and said he was having a great time. However, when he was coming back out to line up for another wave, the white water hit the board into his face and made a huge gash. I heard the board hit something but I didn't know it was his face! I looked at him and all of a sudden blood was gushing from his chin! I couldn't see the cut so I told him to get out of the ocean, unleash and put his board on the beach. I ran up to the car to grab a towel so he could clean the wound.

He cleaned up his chin and the gash was long and deep. I wanted Chris "The Red" to confirm that Chris should get  medical attention and he said, "Ya, I think he will probably need stitches." Thankfully, Seton Coastside Hospital is only 5 minutes away from the JT. Chris "The Red" stayed at the JT to watch our surf boards and surf while I took Chris to the hospital.

We didn't get out of our wetsuits and drove straight to the hospital. The doctor looked at him and said, 'Yes, you need 5 stitches. I'll get everything ready and you'll be out here before you know it."

Chris was really calm, got stitched up and we headed back to the JT. Chris hung out on the beach while Chris "The Red" and I caught some waves. The surf was junky but I met two really cool people in the line up. A woman named, Judy, who lives in Hawaii for half the year and in Half Moon Bay for the other half of the year. I also met Joel from Monterey. 

Even though Chris had to get stitches, he wants to try surfing again. He was doing a great job and he said that he was sad that his session was cut short.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird