6.15 - 6.18 Swell Times

6.15
Jacob and I met up with Amanda at LM and there were a lot of people there because of a paddle out for a fire fighter that passed away.

The waves were really big on the north side but boat docks was breaking really nicely. Darren was already in the water surfing and said he had caught a bunch of nice lefts.

Amanda and I moved a little to the north to catch a little stepper wave since we didn't have our longboards. It was a pleasant morning with shoulder high waves.

6.16
I drove north to Bolinas to drop off BirdSwell shirts at 2 mile surf shop. I had never been there before so Drew (owner of 2 mile) told me where to go to find some surf.

I caught so many beautiful clean knee to chest high rights. Darren told me to bring a longboard and I am glad I took his advice because the waves were perfect for a longboard.

There were a lot of older guys there and they were really fun. One guy I talked with told me he had been surfing Bolinas for 37 years. He also told me that in the 70's he bought 2 acres of land for only $27,000!

On the way to and from Bolinas, I was overwhelmed with happiness because I realize that I live in such an incredibly beautiful place with really awesome people. I also had a deer cross in front of my car. Bolinas is so majestic with the giant cliffs going down into the ocean. 

6.18
I had such a great time at Bolinas that I took Jacob back so he could check it out too. Our friends Sarah, Denise and Joel joined us. Sarah and Joel didn't surf but Denise did.

Jacob and I started out at the patch because I had an amazing time there on Thursday. Denise decided to surf the groin. We should have followed Denise's lead because the groin was breaking much better than the patch. We surfed the patch for an hour and then surfed the groin for another hour. We caught a lot of fun chest high lefts at the groin and bumpy knee high waves at the patch. We also saw Dugen and Judy as we were leaving and they were arriving to surf. 

I hope to go back to Bolinas with Jacob when the patch is breaking better. He didn't experience how magical the patch can be.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird