3.30 - 4.1 The Swell Run Down

From here on out, instead of posting an individual entry for each surf session, I am going to group my sessions into one post and post it once on Saturday (end of week). 

3.30 - Closed Out Linda Mar
I felt like I was in a funk with my client's design work so I decided to contact Dugen to see if he was going for a sunset surf. He said he was and I got packed up and scoped out all the usual spots. The wind was closing out all the spots, but I thought if I just get into the ocean and paddle around it will help clear my mind. 

Eventually, I met up with Dugen and his friends, Mark and Dan. We decided that LM was going to be the best option even though it was blown out. It was a tough paddle out and I only caught one ok wave. When I got out of the water, I was much more clear headed. It wasn't the best day by any means, but it was better than sitting at my desk racking my brain.

3.31 - Shoulder High Jetty
Jacob and I met up with Luke and Cynthia at the Jetty. We also met Luke's friend, Heather. She said it was her 10th time surfing. She was super nice and I look forward to paddling out with her again.

Swell was jumbled with some waves doubling up. I caught a waist high wave right away and then waited for awhile. My best wave was at the end when I dropped in on a nice shoulder high right and rode it all the way in. Jacob caught a bunch of good lefts and rights.

4.1 - My Best Wave at the Jetty thus far
I wasn't planning on surfing, but when the buoy read 20 second swell period I couldn't resist. On top of the great swell conditions, the sun was shining and 70 degrees. Luke and Nikki were already at the Jetty so I gave them a call to get the report. They said it looked a lot like yesterday, but cleaner with bigger sets coming through. I packed up, dropped Jacob off at the BART and headed down to the Jetty. 

The swell was definitely bigger than the day before, clean and beautiful. I caught a couple, but then I caught the best wave I have ever caught at the Jetty. The drop in was a smooth right into an over head and half wave that made my adrenaline pump faster than it has in awhile. After I got off the wave, a woman in the line up said, "Nice wave! I bet that wave will make your day!" I replied and said, "Thanks, you are definitely right! I will be replaying that wave in my head all day." 

I am really glad that I decided to go surfing as it did make my day. I can't stop thinking about it and made me fall in love with surfing all over again.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird