2.11.11 - Intense Pier

Jacob, Kyle and I dawn patrolled at the Pacifica pier today. We haven't been surfing at the pier too much because it is always huge and gnarly. It looked smaller than usual so we were excited to try it on a "small" day. Once we paddled out, the waves were NOT so small. They were over head and half and the bigger set waves were double over head on Jacob and Kyle. The waves always look smaller from the beach!

The biggest challenge that we all faced was the constant current pulling us towards the pier. Personally, I was tired from trying to get out of the rip current. When I went for a wave, my paddled power was depleted and I wasn't dropping in. The drop ins are also really steep.

Kyle decided to paddle in and walk a lot further down to the next peak so he wouldn't be stuck in the current. Jacob followed suit and I finally found a spot that wasn't pulling me. Kyle caught a wave for a second and then fell and paddled in. I decided to paddle in with him because I was not catching anything. Jacob caught one really nice long ride and he also dropped in on a wave that could have been a disaster. He took a double over head wave that he was teetering on and we thought he was going to go over the falls. Thankfully, he made the insane drop in on his stomach. Kyle and I looked at each other and were screaming in excitement. I was so glad that he made it and didn't wipe out. When he paddled in, he was filled with so much adrenalin.

For me, the pier has been my biggest surf spot challenge. I realize that it is probably over my ability, but I live a block away and I really want to keep on trying to get waves there. I am happy that I am even courageous enough to try it. I haven't been courageous enough to try Ocean Beach yet. I hear that it is a really crazy paddle and waves.

I want to keep on challenging myself and take on surf spots that will make me a better surfer on bigger waves. Eventually, I will figure out the pier and prevail!

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird