2.3.11 - Broken Board and Leash

Jacob and I went for a DP session south of the Jetty. When we arrived, we met a guy named Kyle. He was super friendly and mentioned that he met Luke and Darren last week. 

We all headed out to the big surf. It was over head on Jacob and Kyle and over head and half on me (does that even make sense?). The drops were really steep and intense.

Jacob caught the best wave of the day on a huge steep drop on to the shoulder. Jacob broke his leash in the white water. He waited for me on the beach as I caught a smaller one that turned into white water right away. 

Kyle caught a big one that shot him over the falls and on the way into the beach, his board broke in half! I am telling you, the waves were big and the white water was heavy. It was probably a little more intense than I like, but a good challenge to see how much size and heavy waves I can endure. I think this session was almost pushing my limit.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird