1.25.11 LM choppiness

This morning I was planning for a dawn patrol session, but my body wouldn't wake up. I decided to get a lot of work done and go for a late afternoon session with Darren at Linda Mar.

The surf looked really crumbly from the shore, but I didn't have much time so we decided to suit up and go. Once we were in the water, the water was even choppier than it looked. At first I was having a hard time deciphering what was a wave and what was wind chop. Finally, the set waves came in and we caught a bunch. The waves were fast drops that turned into close out right away or slow moving shoulders that would get mixed up in the chop.

Even though the conditions weren't ideal, I was happy to get into the water and catch waves. Surfing is my drug and if I don't get a fix, I am very grumpy.

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird