1.19.11 - DP at the Jetty

After a 5 day hiatus from surfing, due to awesome powder skiing in Jackson Hole, WY and too much work to do yesterday, I was able to get back into the water today. The wind was howling at 6am this morning and the ocean was angry everywhere except the Jetty. 

Jacob and I met up with Luke and Darren. Darren describes the surf perfectly, "…shifty, angry, windy peaks in HMB" The tide was really high and waves were bouncing off the Jetty, but it was definitely the most protected place from the wind.

I am still learning how to navigate the Jetty when it is bouncy and shifty. I caught a fun overhead wave (probably head high on a 6'0 person), a chest high wave and tumbled over a wave. I tried for others, but would get bounced back off of it due to the backwash from the Jetty.

Luke caught the best wave of the day. It was a fast and long right head high wave shooting out at the end of the wave. He was really stoked and I am sure it made his day.

Lately, I have been dreaming about that magical surf session that Jacob, Ed (Jacob's old boss) and I had in Nahant, MA. The waves were clean, glassy, sparkling and head high on a perfect Fall day in New England. I hope that California will have more days like that and not as shifty and bouncy as today.

(Picture taken by Luke)

Yesterday, I received a bunch of lino blocks and will start doing lino block prints on t-shirts. Look out for a new line of t-shirts and design choices that are coming out (I will write more on this later).

Ride Waves and Spread the Swell,
J-Bird