Why do you surf?

A couple of weeks ago, I was asked to join a facebook fan page called, “Why do you surf?” and then was asked to post my answer on the fan page wall.

When I read this question, I wanted to answer in so many ways and decided I couldn’t sum it up in just one sentence. While I have been thinking about how to articulate my answer, I read other people’s responses and I completely agree with their sentiments about surfing.

So, “Why do I surf?”

I surf because:
it is my passion.
it is fun.
I am addicted to catching waves.
I want to top the last ride.
it brings me pure happiness.
it is my way of life.
it releases stress and worry.
i love the ocean.
it heals.
I can escape from the hectic world for a moment.
it is freeing.
I love being immersed in nature.
I need to.
I like dancing on waves.
it is good exercise and I don’t dread it like running.
I crave the glide.
it keeps my spirit alive.
it realigns my perspective.
it is a natural high.
I love it.
I am hooked.
it brings me to new parts of the world.
it brings adventures.
it’s gives me an adrenaline high.
it has created the fondest memories with friends and family.
I can’t live without it.
it can be spiritual.
it brings me closer to God.

I could go on and on, but there isn’t one true reason why I surf. I fell in love with surfing and I have never looked back. I have been blessed by surfing and I will continue to surf until I can’t. Once you get the stoke, you just can’t stop.

So, I will ask you the same question, “Why Do You Surf?”

Spread the Swell,
J-Bird